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Douglas Fir Facts

  • Taking Measure of Your Douglas Fir: Knowing how much footage you need

    Posted on March 31, 2011 by nell

    You’ve found the Douglas fir flooring or trim that you love. You can imagine exactly how that amber-hued Douglas fir will look installed in your home. But now the time has come to put a number on your infatuation. Exactly how much of this stuff do you need to get, anyway?

    When it comes to ordering flooring, siding or paneling, you’ll most often hear them measured in one of two ways: lineal feet or square feet.

    Lineal Feet

    Measure before installing Douglas fir flooring and trim.

    A lineal foot is a simple measurement of how long something is. That’s it. The width or the thickness of the product in question doesn’t come into play—a lineal foot just deals with length.

    Say, for instance, that you have a rectangular room: 10' wide and 14' long, and you want molding to trim it at the ceiling. Think back to your days in geometry class—what you’re doing here is finding the perimeter. To determine how many lineal feet to buy, you’d simply add up the lengths of all the walls you want to put molding on: 10’ + 14’ + 10’ + 14’ = 48 lineal feet. But not too fast—when you order, you’ll need to get a little bit extra, just in case of mistakes. Or, you might need extra length for mitering the corners. Give yourself a 10% margin of error and order an extra five lineal feet of trim, for a total of 53 lineal feet for your 10’x14’ room.

    Square Feet

    Square feet are little different. Whereas with lineal feet, you’re just measuring the length of something, square footage gets at the area of the space you are measuring. Let’s step back into our rectangular room and once again recall our geometry basics: to find the area, you need to multiply the length times the width. Ten times fourteen gives you a 140-square foot room. As with any installation, you need to order a little extra to account for possible mishaps. Assume you’ve got 140 square feet of floor space, factor in a 10% overage, and you’ll be all set with 154 square feet of flooring.

    Putting them together

    But what happens when that’s not the case? Sometimes, you need to convert between the two measurements. For example, if a product is sold by lineal feet and you only know the square footage.

    In order to do that, you need to know not just how long a board is, but how wide it is on its face. A board that’s 5 1/8” wide and 12” long, for instance, would be one lineal foot, because lineal footage only takes length into account. But to figure out how many square feet that is, you have to factor in the width, too.

    For the board in question, you’d take 12 (the number of inches in a foot) and divide it by the width, which is 5 1/8, or 5.125. The answer is 2.34. That means that in this scenario, with boards of this width, for every square foot, you have 2.34 lineal feet.

    Let’s go back to our hypothetical 140-square foot room. You’re using the 5 1/8 boards, and you know that 2.34 lineal feet of this stuff equals one square foot. Multiply the total area—140—by 2.34, and you wind up with 327.8. In theory, that’s how many one-foot-long and 5 1/8” wide sections of board it would take, laid out end to end, to cover the room.

    So, just in case you find a product that’s measured only in lineal feet, you can be prepared to order like a pro.

    At AltruFir, we try to make things easy on you. Rather than converting from one measurement to the other, we sell our products in the measurement that makes the most sense for the material you want to order. If you’re installing trim, you don’t really need to know the square footage. You’re only putting it around the perimeter of the room, so we sell trim by the lineal foot. When it comes to flooring, you’re not putting it just around the edges of the room. You need to know how much surface area to cover, so we sell flooring by the square foot.

    And if you really want to satisfy your inner math wiz and work out exactly how many lineal feet are in your shipment of square-foot-measured Douglas fir flooring? Now you know how to do that too.

    - Jennifer Rouse

    Photo from aussiegal's photostream at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14516334@N00/286709039

    This post was posted in All Entries, Douglas Fir Flooring, Douglas Fir Trim and was tagged with Douglas fir flooring, douglas fir floors, measuring square footage, measuring lineal footage, measure flooring

  • Hot Douglas Fir: Installing Flooring Over Radiant Heated Subfloors

    Posted on March 28, 2011 by nell

    We love our Douglas fir floors. So, we hate to admit to wishing for a little more warmth under our feet when winter hits. During those cold months, we wince when our bare feet freeze from bare floors. So what do you do? Well, you might consider radiant floor heating for toasty toes.

    We’ve enlisted the help of Portland’s Andy Burley of Mr. Sandman Hardwood Floors to talk prep for Douglas fir and other woods prior to installation over radiant heated subfloors. Above all else, Mr. Sandman notes, “Timing is key.” And he’s going to help us go over basics, prep, and the general process for installing wood flooring over radiant heated subfloors.

    radiant heated subfloor

    What radiant heat looks like under your Douglas fir floors.

    What is radiant heat?
    Radiant heat is generated from tubing in concrete-like panels or a tubing network under subfloors allowing heat to rise from the floor, circulate the air, and create warmth throughout a space. Think convection, the natural circulation of heat.

    With radiant heat, no energy is lost through forced-air heating ducts. It’s more efficient and can be divided into three types: air-heated radiant floors, electric radiant floors, and hydronic radiant floors, which are the most cost-effective and commonly used systems in residential settings. Installation and covering materials can be further broken down based on project type.

    What wood works best?
    A wood known for its stability works best with a radiant heating system. Also, narrower boards -- less than 4” wide -- adapt more easily to the gradual temp changes from radiant heating. The narrower width boards expand and contract less. And there are more seams in the flooring which allow for additional movement along the boards.

    Another important factor is having vertical grained wood or “quarter sawn” lumber. Wood cut into the grain – called radial grain – offers better stability. The vertical grain allows the wood to expand vertically rather than across the length of the board. That’s why clear vertical grain Douglas fir flooring is a saving grace in this application.

    Hot floors: CVG Douglas fir, Floating engineered flooring, Laminate flooring, White Oak

    Not-so hot floors: Maple, Pine, Brazilian Cherry

    Mr. Sandman says, “With any type of wood species, be sure to follow the rules and go by the book.” So if your heart’s set on that reclaimed Douglas fir taken from the church where your great-grandparents married, do your research before ordering it. Understand how this vintage Doug fir will react to temperature changes from a heated subfloor. Will you have to deal with more squeaking in the winter months or gaps? If so, it might be best to invest in fresh CVG Douglas fir flooring for superior performance over that heated subfloor.

    What preparation is needed?
    Run your radiant heating system between 65F and 70F degrees a couple of weeks before your wood flooring arrives. If your radiant heating system is new, run it for a minimum of thirty days to two months before ordering your wood and having it installed.

    Running the system ensures that the subfloor and the tubing system is dry. Otherwise, leftover moisture from either will seep into the wood and you and your floors will be uh, well…outta luck. Mr. Sandman says timing and moisture-matching is essential for your wood and radiant heating system to work well together.

    Take it from here, Mr. Sandman:
    After running that radiant system, be sure to test its moisture content. Whatever the moisture content of the subfloor, your wood’s moisture content needs to be a dead-on match, percentage wise. Do this before that wood walks through your door. Once you get a steady moisture-content, have that wood delivered. Acclimate the wood – 3 to 7 days – by leaving it stacked in the room where it’ll be installed. After this period, go ahead and lay it across the floor over the heated subfloor and test its moisture content. Keep on testing the wood’s moisture content until you get a match or at the very most, 1% difference. You may get lucky and have a match or you’ll need to wait a few days. Only then, should you install your wood flooring.

    So site-testing your wood for its moisture content is essential for peak performance. And all this has to happen prior to installation. So, don’t go jet-setting to Jamaica when you’ve got wood to watch over. Remember, as Mr. Sandman says, “Timing is key.”

    Other things to think about
    Know your radiant heating system and how it works from top to bottom and side to side. That way, you’ll know how to best install your wood flooring, including that CVG Douglas fir, understanding how this type of heating will affect your wood flooring.

    Invest in a good set of thermostats. The magic number is three: one for room temperature, another for the tubing network, and a third for outside the house. A thermostat trio is best to moderate floor temperature and prevent flooring damage due to excessive heat or rapid temperature changes (common with “set back” thermostats).

    Gradual heat is best. Anything over 85F degrees is too hot for your wood flooring.

    Have a list of questions ready when you call up contractors. Knowledgeable contractors will be honest with you. And don’t forget to ask about moisture-testing.

    Looks like this one’s a project and half worth of work. But for toasty toes, energy-efficiency, money-saved, and beautiful Douglas fir floors, this is one investment that’ll pay off.

    - Nicole Morales

    Andy Burley – Mr. Sandman Hardwood Floors, Portland, OR
    www.mrsandmanpdx.com, 503-238-1034, mrsandmanpdx@gmail.com

    This post was posted in All Entries, Douglas Fir Flooring and was tagged with Douglas fir flooring, douglas fir floors, radiant heated floors, radiant heated flooring

  • The Poop on Douglas Fir Pet Stains: Removing them from your floors

    Posted on March 18, 2011 by nell

    You love your Douglas fir floors. But, if you’ve got cats, dogs, or other indoor pets (or indoor toddlers, for that matter) then you know the sinking feeling you get when you look down at your feet and see a wet, stinky mess spoiling your beautiful Douglas fir floors.

    Never fear—with a little action on your part you can restore your Douglas fir floors to their original, unsoiled state.

    Recent messes
    If you come upon the mess relatively soon after the deed was done, first remove any solid waste and then use paper towels or newspaper to blot up any puddles. When all traces of the mess have been removed from the surface, clean and disinfect the area with whatever cleaning product you normally use on your wood floors. If your floors are well sealed and you get to it before the mess had time to sink in, you should be in the clear.

    Older issues
    But what about those times when you didn’t spot it immediately? Like when your cat used a rug instead of the litter box and the damp spot soaked through to the floor underneath? Or, when your new puppy chose an out-of-the way corner to have his “accident” and no one realized it until later? Maybe you purchased a home with wood floors that you just know could be beautiful if the previous owners hadn’t let their darn dog go all over the place.

    When set-in stains and lingering odors are a problem, you need to do more than merely removing the mess and wiping the surface. The ammonia in urine often reacts with the tannic acid in wood, creating ugly black blotches.

    Store-bought cleaners
    Most pet stores carry products specifically designed to clean up pet stains. Nature’s Miracle, the best-selling stain treatment product at PetCo, has formulas specifically designed for solid surfaces such as wood. When you’re picking a product, read the label to make sure it’s labeled as safe for wood surfaces. At home, try a tiny bit out in an inconspicuous area first to make sure the cleaner itself isn’t going to discolor your floors.

    Enzyme action
    There are dozens of varieties of pet stain removers on the market, but what most of them have in common are ingredients called enzymes. Enzymes are in a lot of household items—certain laundry soaps and even contact lens cleaners use enzymes as well. What are enzymes? They’re special varieties of bacteria grown in a lab that react with the proteins in stains of animal (or human) origin. A cleaner with enzymatic action will eat away at the stain, breaking down the chemical bonds of the urine itself.

    Another reason it’s important to make sure all traces of a lingering stain are gone? Animals are attracted to the odors left behind in a place that’s been urinated on. If you don’t make sure it’s really gone, your pet might decide to mark that same place again and again, leaving more messes for you to find. Whatever you try, don’t use a cleaner that contains ammonia—the scent of the cleaner could mimic the smell of the ammonia in urine, attracting your pet again.

    When using a stain-removal product cover the entire affected area with the cleaner, then cover it with a paper towel or newspaper to prevent it from evaporating before it has a chance to work. Allow it to dry naturally, then remove. You may have to repeat the process several times.

    Other options
    If an enzymatic cleaner doesn’t work, or if you prefer a do-it-yourself approach, you can try hydrogen peroxide on the stain. Like enzymatic cleaners, hydrogen peroxide works on a chemical level—the oxygen in the peroxide reacts with the substances found in urine to remove or lessen the discoloration and odor.

    As with any product, try a small amount of hydrogen peroxide to make sure it won’t damage the floor first. Some folks recommend adding baking soda to the hydrogen peroxide to speed up the oxidation process. Either way, cover the area you’re treating with something to make sure it doesn’t evaporate before it has a chance to work into the stain, and repeat the treatment several times if necessary.

    You can also try lightening the stain with oxalic acid, a wood bleach. Oxalic acid is said to lighten the tone of wood without bleaching it completely white—it should leave your Douglas fir floors a natural wood color, just lighter (like it was before your pet did his business on it). Oxalic acid is sold in home improvement stores, usually in powder form. You’ll need to make sure the stained area is clean of any dust or dirt, mix up the oxalic acid solution as the package directs, and then, wearing gloves, apply it to the spot, rinsing with clean water afterwards.

    Refinishing: the last resort
    If nothing else is working, you always have the option of sanding and re-finishing the stained portion of the floor. Sand the floor carefully, removing only as much of the surface as you must to get rid of the discoloration. If your wood was stained and has been sanded enough to see the natural color of the Douglas fir, thoroughly wipe off the dust and grit and re-stain. Make sure that whatever stain and finish you use matches the rest of the floor.

    Embrace uniqueness
    With a bit of work, you can get your Douglas fir floors looking good again. And even if they don’t end up in factory-new condition, just remember that part of the beauty of a wood floor is the patina it acquires over time. People buy reclaimed wood on purpose so that they can get that aged look. Each mark of wear and tear is a part of the unique story of your Douglas fir floors—even if the day you woke up to step in a puddle from Fido isn’t your favorite part of that story.

    - Jennifer Rouse

    This post was posted in All Entries, Douglas Fir Flooring, Care & Maintenance and was tagged with Douglas fir flooring, douglas fir floors, pet stains, removing pet stains, hardwood pet stains

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